Discovering Serenity in the Southwest of France

This summer, an opportune time presented itself, extending an invitation to immerse myself in the tranquil beauty of Southwestern France, where gently flowing rivers, hillside castles, and rolling lush vineyards awaited my arrival. 

Jet-lagged and dazed, I embarked on a two-hour rail journey from the congested Paris train station to Bordeaux as the stresses of traveling stand-by gradually faded away, replaced by the promise of serene moments and unforgettable experiences in this picturesque region. 

Fast forward to the present; I’m sitting at my desk, back to reality, recounting moments where I experienced pure bliss in France’s Nouvelle-Aquitaine region.

Thunderstorms in Sarlat

It was an exhausting 24 hours of flying stand-by, a nail-biting experience of chance and making each connecting flight by a hair of luck.  The stress didn’t let up when I touched ground in Paris as I found myself stuck in a traffic accident from the airport to the train station.  With more luck on my side than anyone should ever be allotted, I just made it on the 4-hour train journey with my eyes set on the sleepy town of Sarlat-la-Caneda in the Dordogne department of France.  As soon as I arrived in the deserted train station, I knew my only option was to roll my heavy luggage up the meandering streets to my hotel – I hit my quota on luck for the day.  Needless to say, the start of my trip was far from relaxing.

After I showered, rinsing off 48 hours of planes, trains and automobiles, I changed into my vacation “uniform” of a cream sweater-knit tank under a breezy linen shirt and black khakis.  I officially kicked off my holiday and headed into the charming medieval town to get my bearings and to keep the jetlag at bay.

Every corner of Sarlat is a site to behold of beauty.  Ravenously, I clicked the camera on my phone with every direction, corner, and angle an Instagrammable photo opportunity when suddenly, I could hear the rumble of thunder as it quickly rolled into the labyrinthine streets and echoed through the narrow alleys.   Soon, the scent of rain-soaked sandstone filled the air and I found myself along with others run for shelter as we grabbed our seats under the café umbrellas in the town square. 

It felt as though we were audience members in a grand theatrical performance as we watched the celestial drama unfold.  Lightening streaked across the sky, illuminated the gold hued buildings followed by the clap of thunder – bravo!  Despite the chaos and intensity of these summer thunderstorms, there was a sense of calm as I sipped on my apéritif of sparkling wine kissed with a dash of local walnut liquor, a specialty to the Perigord Noir land. 

Afterward, as the rain intensified, I hurried back to my hotel room, where the lively tap dance of raindrops on the rooftops greeted me like an encore performance.  Climbing the narrow flight of stairs to my quirky attic room, I opened a small window, poking my head out to witness the sunset over the rooftops, accompanied by the gentle cooing of pigeons bathing in nature's bird bath.

Tip: Hire a taxi in advance as most local drivers take clients out on long day trips throughout the region.

Floating Down the Dordogne

The next day, I rose before dawn due to jetlag, but welcomed the opportunity to explore before the village stirred to life with the aroma of freshly baked bread from the local boulangerie.  It was on this day, I checked an item off my bucket list:  kayaking the Dordogne River.  After a private transfer to the starting point on the riverbank, I situated myself on the plastic kayak as a helpful French man gave me a strong push and the gentle current carried me down the river.

Time slowed with the pace of the river as I floated downstream.  I listened to the social chatter of birds coming from their sanctuary of the forest.  My kayak carried me past romantic castles standing at attention high on dramatic cliffs as I recognized their purpose of claiming and protecting their territory from centuries past.  A highlight of the journey was docking my kayak at the stunning medieval village of La Roque-Gageac to enjoy a leisurely lunch of a fresh pesto bruschetta and panna cotta with seasonal strawberries that tasted as succulent and sweet as a piece of candy.   

Tip: Ask the kayak shop to loan you a small waterproof storage container to keep important items, like electronics, clothes, and money dry.

Retail Therapy in Bordeaux

On day 3, I made it back to Bordeaux via train and a taxi transfer who insisted he teach me how to pronounce “cinq” correctly.  After I dropped off my bags in my hotel, I took advantage of my free time in the historic, sprawling city for some retail therapy, a dopamine high for my brain and a detriment to my wallet.  Shopping in Bordeaux is a delightful experience where you can immerse yourself in the city’s historic charm and participate in a vibrant pedestrian scene.  I explored the popular shopping districts like the Golden Triangle, where high-end fashion brands and luxury boutiques open their doors to materialistic victims like me.  Some of my favorite French girl shops here are: Jonak, Gas Bijoux, and Sezane.

Tip: After a long day of walking, I suggest dining at the historic Le Chapon Fin.  It’s interior rock façade has stories to tell and Bordeaux vintages that would typically blow the budget; however, they utilize the Coravin wine saver for fair priced pours by the glass. 

Seaside Leisure in Arcachon

I utilized my time in Bordeaux as a springboard for day tour exploration of the surrounding sites.  One day, I joined a small group tour to experience the renowned wines and terroir of St. Emilion.  While enjoyable, it was not a standout as I found the town to be quite small and overrun with wine shops selling high production wine labels catering to American tourists. 

On another day, only an hour train ride from Bordeaux, I visited the coastal gem, Arcachon.  Stepping off the train, I was immediately transported to a sense of innocence and nostalgic charm, marveling at the Victorian architecture and soft pastel hues of the storefronts.  It felt like a place where time stands still, and the pulse slows in pace with the gentle waves of the Arcachon Bay. 

I checked the timetable of the ferry and bus schedules and made a quick decision to aboard the small commuter boat to the Cap Ferret peninsula, a refuge for the upper class who yearn to breath in the sea air and inhale oysters.  I rented a rusty, battered bike and followed the cycling path through the pine forest stopping along the way to visit oyster farmer’s cabins selling their freshly harvested batches, the perfect opportunity for tasting and to wash down with a glass of Chablis.  Before catching the ferry back, I treated myself to the freshest violet-flavored ice cream.

Returning to Arcachon, I relaxed at a bustling café on the boardwalk for lunch, indulging in local oysters and champagne.  The waitress even insisted I savor every morsel, scraping any residue off the shell so that I didn’t miss a bite.  With time to spare, I navigated the bus system for a 30-minute journey to Dune du Pilat – the largest sand dune in Europe – culminating my exploration with awe-inspiring views of the expansive landscape.

Tip: Before you board the train from Bordeaux, grab a chocolate covered canelé from Caneles Baillardran at the train station.  It’s a local tasty treat that holds up well in your day pack and is the perfect indulgence in a comfortable train seat, whilst you stare out the window, watching the beautiful French countryside flicker past your eyes.  

My Reward at Les Source du Caudalie

My final day culminated in a serene day and night spent at Les Sources de Caudalie, an opulent spa and hotel nestled away just a short 20-minute drive from Bordeaux.  As we approached, I exchanged a knowing glance with my amiable French taxi driver through the rear-view mirror, my excitement palpable. With a delighted squeal, I watched as the resort revealed itself from behind verdant hedges and sprawling vineyards, stretching endlessly before us.

The car smoothly turned onto the gravel driveway to the majestic lobby entrance, where I was warmly welcomed by a staff member extending their hands to assist me out of the car and into my sanctuary for the day.  The charming driver bid me farewell with a sincere handshake and a lingering gaze.  I blushed for a moment locked in his stare until he released my grip, and in a flash, I was pulled back into reality.

With only a limited time to indulge, I wasted no time exploring every nook and cranny and enjoying all the amenities the resort had to offer.  From savoring a refreshing artichoke gazpacho soup for lunch in the café to embarking on a bicycle adventure equipped with a vintage wine box for a basket and a guided “treasure map,” leading me to secluded annex chateau.  Cycling along rolling vineyards and sun-kissed homes, I savored every twist and turn as the map guided me back to the resort in time for a small group wine tour, followed by a few moments to lounge under the umbrella of an oak tree for rest and relaxation.

The late afternoon had approached and on my way to dinner, the familiar sound of a summer thunderstorm rumbled, prompting me to seek the shelter of my table reserved for me as the rain swiftly descended.  Seated outside under the roof’s overhang, I dined amidst an overflowing curtain of rain with the mist just kissing the right side of my shoulder.  I observed the other guests requesting to be moved inside while I found comfort and solace with a plate of rich Fois Gras and a glass of wine.  

Post-dinner, I leisurely strolled back to my room, as the rainstorm had ended, and the clouds cleared, revealing a pastel sunset gently softening the textures of the vineyards, reminiscent of the smooth brush strokes of an impressionist painting.  Once inside my hotel room, I settled on my porch to witness the gradual fading daylight, and eventually, when the last drop of light could be consumed, I retired to my room for a soothing and satisfying bubble bath.

Tip: Spend at least 2 days here!

My Souvenir

Now as I sit here at my desk, crafting the final lines of my travel narrative to Southwest France, I find myself immersed in reflection of the tranquil moments I encountered amid the regions’ landscapes, weather patterns, and my personal journey.  These memories stir within me a profound sense of peace, reminding me of the serenity I found amidst the beauty of the land and the unhurried rhythm of life in France.

In acknowledging the enduring presence of these experiences within my memory, I come to understand their significance as more than mere recollections – they are treasures of senses and emotions that I can revisit when I seek solace and contentment.  These cherished moments stand as the most valuable souvenirs of my travels, reminding me of the essence of why I embark on journeys in the first place – to discover moments of profound peace and beauty in new and unfamiliar places.